Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 8 – Nuwara Eliya > Haputale

I was so fickle minded, I initially made up my mind to go Ella, but once the train stops at Haputale which I can visit the Horton’s plain and Lipton Seat, I jumped out from my seat and head for whatever town comes first. The train ride is awesome with great spectacular views of tea plantations; it’s as if you are god looking down, marvel at your own creations.

Same thing, accommodation can never be hard to source; it’s only good accommodation are hard to come by. I follow a man after knowing that the hotel he is recommending is featured in my guide book. I check into the hotel half convinced. I just have to put my blind faith on the guide book for this time. After exploring the town, I head back to my hotel and do my laundry since most of the sightseeing has to do it early in the morning. Also, the hotel charge Rps: 50 for a piece of laundry, yes underwear is consider as one piece.

Half way doing my laundry, the water from the tap stops running then it spurts out brown dirty water. My goodness, it’s disconcerting! I tried to think maybe they are cleaning the pipe or something. Nonetheless, I move my washing to the shower tap which seems fine. After the “dirty” incident, I still have an utmost gratification on doing my own laundry especially after the sun dries it up.

With the dirty tap incident in mind, I decided to take things in my own hand and went around exploring other accommodations since I’m going to stay for another 2 nights in this town. After a few searches, I decided to move into another guesthouse first thing in the morning, even though it’s a bit far off the town. I can’t wait for the sun to rise and the tap water to be clean.

Transport
Bus from the bus station to Nanu Oya Train station - Rps: 20
Train from Nanu Oya Train station > Haputale Train station – Rps: 60 (Even though I bought the ticket that meant to go Ella)

Sleep
Sri Lak View Holiday Inn – Single room for 2 - Rps: 1000
It’s a decent hotel but I guess I came at the wrong time when they are cleaning their pipes, nonetheless, the spacious rooms do have great views but cleanliness is my priority. Great views don’t brush my teeth clean.

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 7 – Galle > Nuwara Eliya

After further thoughts, I decided to catch the 6am early bus to Ella. I reach the bus terminal around 5:15am, making sure I can catch the bus with a better seat. As all travellers will tell you, plan not to plan, I found that there is no bus to Badulla, however there is a bus from Galle to Nuwara Eliya.

With that in mind, I go straight to take the bus to Nuwara Eliya, my second best option. It’s one of my most uncomfortable bus rides, of course beside the bus ride I took from Delhi to Dharamshala. I swear my ass was in pain with my stomach churning, even though I did get a good seat right in front where I can stretch my long legs but I decided to sacrifice it for my 90 litres backpack and after the tedious 9 hours bus ride, I finally reach Nuwara Eliya.

Usually, there’ll be some men approaching you for accommodation near the bus station. Sometimes, you take a gamble and get unexpected results. So I choose not to follow my guide book blindly this time and decided to go for one of their recommendations. The room wasn’t that bad, it’s clean and neat, and it comes with a balcony. The only thing is that he told me initially it’ll be Rps: 1000 rather than Rps: 1500 per night so I give up and took a tuk tuk to the Single tree hotel suggested by the Guidebook. In the end, they told me, it’s the full moon holiday, yes you heard right, they do celebrate full moon like werewolves “religiously”. That means Sri Lankans don’t work in full moon, it’s a holiday for them. The room rates increase to Rps: 2500 per night which is not within my budget, so they suggest I check another hotel, Victoria Inn which is Rps: 1500 per night. After the disappointment from Single tree hotel, the worst is yet to be over.

They drove me to Victoria Inn which I’m sure they’ll get commission somehow. My jaws dropped when they show me a servant room, yes like the room in the basement where the servant sleeps, pathetically basic and dark. Now I regret not taking the room I first have seen. I reluctantly accept it, knowing I might take some time to search for another accommodation, sky is turning dark and freezing cold.

I dropped off my bag and as much as possible leave the room just for sleeping while I spent most of my time out of the servant’s room. I then realized the room that I have first seen is just 2 buildings away from where my current room. Damm it! If only I take the chance to wander around a little longer! Well, accept it and make the situation a little better, it’s only for one night.

I explore the touristy town, have my dinner and discover the central market sell mostly winter wear, if Singapore is not a tropical country, I might get a few but I got my jacket with me and useless to wait for Singapore to have winter so I headed to the supermarket, and since the supermarket sell DVD, I think I’ll get some snacks and just watch the movie to waste my time.

When I got back, the caretaker say I can change my room which I requested earlier. My goodness! I feel like 5 stars upgrade immediately. I’m so grateful that I almost want to tip him. The room on top is so much better even though can be better but I’m not complaining after spending 10 minutes in the servant room. Thus, regardless, I’m leaving this touristy uninspired town tomorrow first thing in the morning. Maybe to Haputale, you never know.

Transport
Bus from Galle > Nuwara Eliya – Rps: 300

Sleep
Victoria Inn – Single room for 2 - Rps: 1500
After the upgrade from the servant room, I wouldn’t have recommended it as well. It’s not the cleanest or the dirtiest room in town. I just don’t feel good tossing and turning over their beds. Shame on Single Tree Hotel for suggesting this hotel.

Eat

Egg fried noodles - Rps: 280
Same old same old as what I’ve eaten for the past few times from other eateries except this time more chili needed.

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 6 – Another day in Galle

The plan today is to do nothing. Okay maybe except brain storming my next stop, there are so many options getting from one place to another, or particularly towards the tea plantations up the cool hills. After asking around, they told me there is a direct bus to Nuwara Eliya or Badulla where I can change a bus to Ella. It’s an early bus ride so Suhaimi ask me to sleep as early as possible which is quite possible at the age of 31. I kill my time effortlessly by watching 3 movies on my bed; I love Philip Morris, My Ex 2 (Thai horror movie) and The Killers.

In the evening, I bid the fort farewell by sitting in front of the ocean watching the clouds roll by and the tides hit the shore, with my mp3 on, kites flying high, u know how I feel…

Eat
Vegetable Egg Kotto - Rps: 150
Imagine shredded Roti prata, in fried rice style, or fried mee hooon kuay except the cook did it on a flat metal stove with 2 iron plates making lots of sound like drumming. It’s delicious, appetizing and really interesting to eat in this kind of combination especially for someone like me whom never like mee hoon kuay.

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 5 – Galle

I still have a hard time pronouncing the name of this town, Galle, “Gaul” or the closest I can think of is earthworm in Hokkien, the first letter “Gao” Hun. Anyway, as long as you don’t make me repeat it like a mantra, I guess it is fine. However, this town is not difficult at all; the historic fort that built by the Dutch is impressive, the buses are labeled clearly where to go, also, everywhere you go, you’re surrounded by the ocean, How can it be difficult to love this town? At times, you pass by the fishermen with their boats, at the roadside selling their catch. It does smell fishy : )

I left my guesthouse early after the recommendation from Suhami’s husband yesterday that I should visit this old Buddhist temple, Wijeyananda temple. He even drew a map and asks me to follow religiously; apparently, the whole family dislikes the tuk tuk driver ripping off the tourist so he advises me best to travel by foot. I got lost half way and so I took the tuk tuk, within 5 minutes I reach the temple. It’s a very tranquil and quiet temple. No tourist to be seen and I saw a few novice monks studying at one corner, there is this young novice monk following me and showing me around the temple, I first step into the main hall, Vihara to pay my respects to the Buddha, Seriously, the temple is like a museum, with all the life stories of Buddha depicted in life size sculptures surrounding the main altar. I swear I saw Angulimala with his 999 fingers dangling fearlessly.

I take some time to absorb the serenity but the young novice monks are very interested in talking to me as a foreigner, since their English is not that good, I communicate with a lot of hand gestures. After I left the temple, I walked back to the main street and passed by a bookstore and bought a book on the Great Kings of Singhala, a good background read before I venture to the ancient cities. On my way back, I met Scott, he suggest to visit the sea turtle conservation hatchery, without much though I jump into the idea and the tuk tuk provided by the guesthouse to the hatchery. It’s pretty disappointing as the man guided us like a monotonous robot, the hatchery is small with a few turtles, but I was very much intrigued by the 3 months “old” young turtles and touching the turtles make me realize how gentle and wonderful these creatures are. We left unfulfillingly.

On our bus journey back, a young boy spontaneously sat beside Scott, marvel at his camera when taking a picture of me, he keeps talking and singing non-stop, he is like a hyperactive energized bunny. At one point I mimic what he said and cause the passengers to laugh as well. He really cracks me up so high! I then stroll around the fort for a while before I went back to my “haven”, Beach haven guesthouse…

Transport
Tuk tuk from Matara road > Wijeyananda temple – Rps: 70
Tuk Tuk from Beach haven > Sea turtle hatchery (one way) – Rps: 350
Bus from Habaraduwa bus station near Sea turtle hatchery > Galle Bus station – Rps: 22

Eat & Drink
Mutarbak and Roti Prata galore – between Rps: 30 – Rps: 60
All sorts of Roti Prata wrap with curry potatoes filing and some with eggs and onions. Very full and filing.

EGB Ginger Beer
Carbonated drink in Ginger flavor, It's indeed refreshing!

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 4 – Mount Lavinia > Galle

After a fantastic stay in Mount Lavinia, I bid farewell to Mrs Priya, walk by foot to Templer road where I get a bus from Mount Lavinia to Galle. It wasn’t hard to find the Templer road, what I was not expecting is the ordinary Bus stop is consider as Bus terminal, it’s a bit far stretched judging by the look of it. I then catch an “express” bus to Galle for the next 3hours. The bus conductor is very friendly; he gave me a 5Rps discount for my bus fare (maybe he doesn’t like coins or I’m just cool looking ; ) and even asked a male passenger to give up his seat for me which I kindly declined, I dislike partialities treatment. The bus driver even makes space for my 90litres backpack, that’s what I call 5 stars service, Singaporean!

Once I arrived in Galle, the colorful flags and policemen with the tight heavy security seems to be a grand affair, I know I’m not a VIP but seriously this VIP treatment is going too far ; ) I later heard from the Tuk Tuk driver is not me they are receiving. It’s the President Mahinda Rajapaksa opening the newly renovated bus terminal from the one destroyed by the tsunami several years ago that is causing this commotion.

Under the hot weather and the crowd, I catch a tuk tuk to my guesthouse where I met the Siti, the mother of the guesthouse owner Suhami. This is a family business passing down from her mother since 1968. She shows me the room and I immediately adore it. After settling down, I went straight out to grab my lunch, then as I’m about to leave the doorway, I saw a guy, Scott from Australia, without sounding like a stalker since I’ve not spoken to anyone more than 4 sentences for the past 3 days, I ask him if he is going to lunch, he said yes, I told him I stay in the same guesthouse as him and if I may join him for lunch, well, at this point who can say no? : )

He initially suggest a café facing the beach, sunset café, unfortunately it is closed, we then venture out of the fort to a local restaurant, I ordered a vegetable egg noodles while he ordered a vegetable fried rice, I was joking about the huge portion of food that the restaurant was serving to the 3 petite ladies, it really is something you don’t get to see in Singapore, it’s a rarity! Not even 3 men eat that much food, when it comes to our turn, I suggest to take away half of my portion for dinner.

I then begin to know more about, Scott. He is a doctor under placement at one of the hospital in Galle. He has been staying in Beach Haven for almost 3 weeks, a really humble, helpful and sincere chap. After lunch, we headed to the supermarket next door where I get my Yogurt curd and he gets his ice-cream. We then went straight back to our guesthouse.

After a nap, I started to explore around the fort surrounded by the ocean right besides my guesthouse, the scenery is breathtaking, and there is even a lighthouse which is inspiring turning the lights non-stop every night guiding the lost ships… As I stroll along the fort facing the ocean, I can’t help but to wonder, what have I done right to deserve this solitary happiness?

Transport
Bus from Mount Lavinia > Galle – Rps: 100 (I got a Rps: 5 discount from the conductor)
Tuk Tuk from Galle Bus station > Beach Haven Guesthouse – Rps: 200 (I got ripped off, it should be around Rps: 100 -150) with 15kg backpack on my shoulders, I wasn’t really thinking)

Sleep
Beach Haven – 65 Light street road, Single room – Rps: 1000
A cozy place to stay! Location is good! The room on the ground level even though looks like it’s for the dwarf mainly till to the narrow doorway is clean and inviting. I especially love the mosquito net hanging on the celling, makes it much more “secure” to sleep. The rooms on top have much better view and a communal corridor with seats outside the room to chill. Free WiFi.

Eat
Vegetable Egg noodle – Rps: 180
The taste of the noddle is slight better than yesterday but still can be better; I guess chili does help to elevate the taste more.

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 3 – Another day in Mount Lavinia

This place started to grow on me; it must be the laid back demeanor and the sea breeze. I woke up early extending one more night from Mrs. Priya, exploring the northern side of the town and discover the Sunday market. Food is always part of a country dominant culture, ever since I’m a vegetarian; I’m fascinated with the myriad of fruits and vegetables. I found something really interesting, even though it’s hard to try it because it needs to be cooked, but the unripe jackfruit cutting into small pieces seems intriguing, I wonder how it’s going to be cooked.

On my way to the market, I saw a Buddhist temple, it’s not an astounding temple but the peace and tranquil captures my attention, I then met a monk at his Kuti (monks quarter) without knowing the main hall is locked, he politely insisted that I wait for him at the main hall while he goes get the key. I’m comforted by the main Buddha statue, the halo around the Buddha is a bit tacky but the wall painting of Maitreya (the future Buddha) speaks to me especially in a Theravadian temple. What amazes me is the creativity of the candle stands shaping in Bodhi leave and Dharma wheel. How creative! I left after making my dana (donation), there is quite a lot of Singaporeans coming to this temple judging from the records.

Eat or Drink

Bright Orange Coconut Rps: 25
Oh the bright orange coconut I saw on the floor at the market, with numerous local drinking on the spot is tempting. I got one to try, not as sweet as I hope to be but it sure helps to quench my thirst on this hot day.

Strawberry homemade ice-cream Rps: 20
I saw an old man riding a bicycle with a box behind saying homemade ice-cream, I immediately stop him and ask for one, even though he doesn’t know how to speak English, he sure give me something sweet and pink :), a strawberry flavor ice-cream. I was kind of reluctant in the beginning for I know the wafer will somehow get into contact with his hand, well, why worry so much, Just “eat” it. I’m happy to report no diarrhea ensues.

Vegetable fried noodle with Egg Rps: 90
Not the best thing I’ve eaten on earth, the big portion intimidates me a little, there is no taste in it, bland, thank goodness for the chili!

Ratthi Yoghurt Curd Rps: 22
This is a must try in Sri Lanka, yogurt that looks like soya bean curd, the texture is the same but instead of soya, it’s yogurt. Unique blend of texture with the flavor. Absolutely adore it! It’s going to be my desert for every meal in Sri Lanka! Available in all supermarkets.

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 2 – KL > Colombo

I took a really early flight from KL to Colombo at 6am, not wanting to spend the extra money on midnight cab; I left my guesthouse just slightly before midnight, catching the train from Pasar Seni > KL central. Well, let’s say it’s going to be a long night. I reach the KL Central station around midnight, and waited for the AeroBus arrive around 1.30am before the bus driver drives to the LCCT airport.

KL airport is one of the airports that provide free Wifi, at least for 3 hours. I waste my time surfing the internet and watching an old funny movie clip that my sister had sent me in facebook. Laughing so loudly in the wee hours that everyone started to crowd behind me thinking what’s this lunatic watching? I then took my hot cakes breakfast in Macdonald before I slept my way on the plane to Colombo.

Once arrived in Colombo, my heart beams with excitement, I didn’t really have a good vibe during my last trip in Burma, perhaps till to the military situation, for more on that, read this entry

Touching down in Colombo, there is this sense of bliss, perhaps the serene white Buddha that gaze over me near the immigration counters overcome whatever fears I might have for this trip. Immigration is a breeze, after picking up my backpack, I went straight to the bank counter to exchange my currency, I’m glad Singapore currency is prevalent in this country even though the rates is not favourable (S$1 = Rps:86) but I do need some cash for my local bus going ahead to Mount Lavinia.

I took a free shuttle bus to Averiwatte bus station; from there I took another bus 187 to Colombo fort railway station, the journey is an eye-opening especially since this is the first time I’m in Sri Lanka. The people siting butt to butt close to you, passengers giving up seats to the monk, listening to Pali sutta (scripture) chanting in Bollywood Pop arrangement, Mother Mary and Jesus statues on the corner of the roads opening up their arms welcoming you, Buddha in mediation posture sitting in front of huge Bodhi tree and Buddhist iconography displaying on the vehicles, it’s interesting how a 2 hours bus journey slowly reveals what kind of lifestyle and culture the Sri Lankans adopt here.

I made a change from bus to train following up to my destination: Mount Lavinia. The train ride is beautiful; you see ocean views right from the window seat. The winds that caress your face makes you feel like visiting Sri Lanka is a right choice. A kind local prompt me which station to alight, from the station I took a tuk tuk to Mount Lavinia Home Stay. I met Mrs Priya, a friendly house owner, whom is very attentive. I then drop dead on my bed till to the jetlag, overnight travelling and the 180 minutes time lapse.

I woke up around 4pm, exploring the town and the nearby beach. It’s full of locals flying kites, playing cricket & kicking ball on the beach. I’m certain I'm the only Asian; I’m surprised they are not a lot of tourist or backpackers. I sure look like an alien to them, and standing at 1.78m sure doesn’t help. They look at you, in a friendly and awkward sort of manner, some locals even come up and say hello. With my stomach growling, I then check out the eateries, hoping I can get a first taste of Curry and Rice in Sri Lanka. I take away my dinner, knowing it’ll be good to eat in my room, enjoying my me time while watching DVD, a movie I bought in KL, I love Philip Morris before I fall into a very much needed and long sleep…

Transport
Aero Bus from KL Sentral > LCCT: RM8
Bus Ride from Averiwatte bus station > Colombo Fort Railway Station: Rps: 100
Train fare from Colombo Fort Railway > Mount Lavinia: Rps: 50
Tuk tuk from Mount Lavinia Train station > Mount Lavinia Home stay: Rps: 150

Sleep
Mount Lavinia Home Stay
17/7 Off De Saram Road Mount Lavinia
Rps: 1300 for a single person

I love the size of the bedroom. It’s huge with 2 high ceiling fans. Free Wi-Fi is definitely a bonus. The toilet is really clean with Jasmine flower scent, personally not my favourite scent but I can make do with it comparing other unknown unpleasant odour. 2 single beds with colourful, inviting and cheerful bed sheet cover bring a smile to my face. Location is good, walkable distance to the beach, cafés and restaurants.

Eat

Kushmi Foods - 201 Galle Road, Mount Lavinia.

Vegetarian Fried Rice with Soy Curry (Rps: 150) – Simply delectable, the soy curry seems to have squishy mushroom in it, the rice unlike India, is crushed, tiny and broken sort of manner. It’s flavourful; the preserved vegetable is salty yet tasty. Even though the appearance of the curry looks like shit but I still love it! Eating with my hands is authentic and fun!