Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 5 – Galle

I still have a hard time pronouncing the name of this town, Galle, “Gaul” or the closest I can think of is earthworm in Hokkien, the first letter “Gao” Hun. Anyway, as long as you don’t make me repeat it like a mantra, I guess it is fine. However, this town is not difficult at all; the historic fort that built by the Dutch is impressive, the buses are labeled clearly where to go, also, everywhere you go, you’re surrounded by the ocean, How can it be difficult to love this town? At times, you pass by the fishermen with their boats, at the roadside selling their catch. It does smell fishy : )

I left my guesthouse early after the recommendation from Suhami’s husband yesterday that I should visit this old Buddhist temple, Wijeyananda temple. He even drew a map and asks me to follow religiously; apparently, the whole family dislikes the tuk tuk driver ripping off the tourist so he advises me best to travel by foot. I got lost half way and so I took the tuk tuk, within 5 minutes I reach the temple. It’s a very tranquil and quiet temple. No tourist to be seen and I saw a few novice monks studying at one corner, there is this young novice monk following me and showing me around the temple, I first step into the main hall, Vihara to pay my respects to the Buddha, Seriously, the temple is like a museum, with all the life stories of Buddha depicted in life size sculptures surrounding the main altar. I swear I saw Angulimala with his 999 fingers dangling fearlessly.

I take some time to absorb the serenity but the young novice monks are very interested in talking to me as a foreigner, since their English is not that good, I communicate with a lot of hand gestures. After I left the temple, I walked back to the main street and passed by a bookstore and bought a book on the Great Kings of Singhala, a good background read before I venture to the ancient cities. On my way back, I met Scott, he suggest to visit the sea turtle conservation hatchery, without much though I jump into the idea and the tuk tuk provided by the guesthouse to the hatchery. It’s pretty disappointing as the man guided us like a monotonous robot, the hatchery is small with a few turtles, but I was very much intrigued by the 3 months “old” young turtles and touching the turtles make me realize how gentle and wonderful these creatures are. We left unfulfillingly.

On our bus journey back, a young boy spontaneously sat beside Scott, marvel at his camera when taking a picture of me, he keeps talking and singing non-stop, he is like a hyperactive energized bunny. At one point I mimic what he said and cause the passengers to laugh as well. He really cracks me up so high! I then stroll around the fort for a while before I went back to my “haven”, Beach haven guesthouse…

Transport
Tuk tuk from Matara road > Wijeyananda temple – Rps: 70
Tuk Tuk from Beach haven > Sea turtle hatchery (one way) – Rps: 350
Bus from Habaraduwa bus station near Sea turtle hatchery > Galle Bus station – Rps: 22

Eat & Drink
Mutarbak and Roti Prata galore – between Rps: 30 – Rps: 60
All sorts of Roti Prata wrap with curry potatoes filing and some with eggs and onions. Very full and filing.

EGB Ginger Beer
Carbonated drink in Ginger flavor, It's indeed refreshing!

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 4 – Mount Lavinia > Galle

After a fantastic stay in Mount Lavinia, I bid farewell to Mrs Priya, walk by foot to Templer road where I get a bus from Mount Lavinia to Galle. It wasn’t hard to find the Templer road, what I was not expecting is the ordinary Bus stop is consider as Bus terminal, it’s a bit far stretched judging by the look of it. I then catch an “express” bus to Galle for the next 3hours. The bus conductor is very friendly; he gave me a 5Rps discount for my bus fare (maybe he doesn’t like coins or I’m just cool looking ; ) and even asked a male passenger to give up his seat for me which I kindly declined, I dislike partialities treatment. The bus driver even makes space for my 90litres backpack, that’s what I call 5 stars service, Singaporean!

Once I arrived in Galle, the colorful flags and policemen with the tight heavy security seems to be a grand affair, I know I’m not a VIP but seriously this VIP treatment is going too far ; ) I later heard from the Tuk Tuk driver is not me they are receiving. It’s the President Mahinda Rajapaksa opening the newly renovated bus terminal from the one destroyed by the tsunami several years ago that is causing this commotion.

Under the hot weather and the crowd, I catch a tuk tuk to my guesthouse where I met the Siti, the mother of the guesthouse owner Suhami. This is a family business passing down from her mother since 1968. She shows me the room and I immediately adore it. After settling down, I went straight out to grab my lunch, then as I’m about to leave the doorway, I saw a guy, Scott from Australia, without sounding like a stalker since I’ve not spoken to anyone more than 4 sentences for the past 3 days, I ask him if he is going to lunch, he said yes, I told him I stay in the same guesthouse as him and if I may join him for lunch, well, at this point who can say no? : )

He initially suggest a café facing the beach, sunset café, unfortunately it is closed, we then venture out of the fort to a local restaurant, I ordered a vegetable egg noodles while he ordered a vegetable fried rice, I was joking about the huge portion of food that the restaurant was serving to the 3 petite ladies, it really is something you don’t get to see in Singapore, it’s a rarity! Not even 3 men eat that much food, when it comes to our turn, I suggest to take away half of my portion for dinner.

I then begin to know more about, Scott. He is a doctor under placement at one of the hospital in Galle. He has been staying in Beach Haven for almost 3 weeks, a really humble, helpful and sincere chap. After lunch, we headed to the supermarket next door where I get my Yogurt curd and he gets his ice-cream. We then went straight back to our guesthouse.

After a nap, I started to explore around the fort surrounded by the ocean right besides my guesthouse, the scenery is breathtaking, and there is even a lighthouse which is inspiring turning the lights non-stop every night guiding the lost ships… As I stroll along the fort facing the ocean, I can’t help but to wonder, what have I done right to deserve this solitary happiness?

Transport
Bus from Mount Lavinia > Galle – Rps: 100 (I got a Rps: 5 discount from the conductor)
Tuk Tuk from Galle Bus station > Beach Haven Guesthouse – Rps: 200 (I got ripped off, it should be around Rps: 100 -150) with 15kg backpack on my shoulders, I wasn’t really thinking)

Sleep
Beach Haven – 65 Light street road, Single room – Rps: 1000
A cozy place to stay! Location is good! The room on the ground level even though looks like it’s for the dwarf mainly till to the narrow doorway is clean and inviting. I especially love the mosquito net hanging on the celling, makes it much more “secure” to sleep. The rooms on top have much better view and a communal corridor with seats outside the room to chill. Free WiFi.

Eat
Vegetable Egg noodle – Rps: 180
The taste of the noddle is slight better than yesterday but still can be better; I guess chili does help to elevate the taste more.

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 3 – Another day in Mount Lavinia

This place started to grow on me; it must be the laid back demeanor and the sea breeze. I woke up early extending one more night from Mrs. Priya, exploring the northern side of the town and discover the Sunday market. Food is always part of a country dominant culture, ever since I’m a vegetarian; I’m fascinated with the myriad of fruits and vegetables. I found something really interesting, even though it’s hard to try it because it needs to be cooked, but the unripe jackfruit cutting into small pieces seems intriguing, I wonder how it’s going to be cooked.

On my way to the market, I saw a Buddhist temple, it’s not an astounding temple but the peace and tranquil captures my attention, I then met a monk at his Kuti (monks quarter) without knowing the main hall is locked, he politely insisted that I wait for him at the main hall while he goes get the key. I’m comforted by the main Buddha statue, the halo around the Buddha is a bit tacky but the wall painting of Maitreya (the future Buddha) speaks to me especially in a Theravadian temple. What amazes me is the creativity of the candle stands shaping in Bodhi leave and Dharma wheel. How creative! I left after making my dana (donation), there is quite a lot of Singaporeans coming to this temple judging from the records.

Eat or Drink

Bright Orange Coconut Rps: 25
Oh the bright orange coconut I saw on the floor at the market, with numerous local drinking on the spot is tempting. I got one to try, not as sweet as I hope to be but it sure helps to quench my thirst on this hot day.

Strawberry homemade ice-cream Rps: 20
I saw an old man riding a bicycle with a box behind saying homemade ice-cream, I immediately stop him and ask for one, even though he doesn’t know how to speak English, he sure give me something sweet and pink :), a strawberry flavor ice-cream. I was kind of reluctant in the beginning for I know the wafer will somehow get into contact with his hand, well, why worry so much, Just “eat” it. I’m happy to report no diarrhea ensues.

Vegetable fried noodle with Egg Rps: 90
Not the best thing I’ve eaten on earth, the big portion intimidates me a little, there is no taste in it, bland, thank goodness for the chili!

Ratthi Yoghurt Curd Rps: 22
This is a must try in Sri Lanka, yogurt that looks like soya bean curd, the texture is the same but instead of soya, it’s yogurt. Unique blend of texture with the flavor. Absolutely adore it! It’s going to be my desert for every meal in Sri Lanka! Available in all supermarkets.

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 2 – KL > Colombo

I took a really early flight from KL to Colombo at 6am, not wanting to spend the extra money on midnight cab; I left my guesthouse just slightly before midnight, catching the train from Pasar Seni > KL central. Well, let’s say it’s going to be a long night. I reach the KL Central station around midnight, and waited for the AeroBus arrive around 1.30am before the bus driver drives to the LCCT airport.

KL airport is one of the airports that provide free Wifi, at least for 3 hours. I waste my time surfing the internet and watching an old funny movie clip that my sister had sent me in facebook. Laughing so loudly in the wee hours that everyone started to crowd behind me thinking what’s this lunatic watching? I then took my hot cakes breakfast in Macdonald before I slept my way on the plane to Colombo.

Once arrived in Colombo, my heart beams with excitement, I didn’t really have a good vibe during my last trip in Burma, perhaps till to the military situation, for more on that, read this entry

Touching down in Colombo, there is this sense of bliss, perhaps the serene white Buddha that gaze over me near the immigration counters overcome whatever fears I might have for this trip. Immigration is a breeze, after picking up my backpack, I went straight to the bank counter to exchange my currency, I’m glad Singapore currency is prevalent in this country even though the rates is not favourable (S$1 = Rps:86) but I do need some cash for my local bus going ahead to Mount Lavinia.

I took a free shuttle bus to Averiwatte bus station; from there I took another bus 187 to Colombo fort railway station, the journey is an eye-opening especially since this is the first time I’m in Sri Lanka. The people siting butt to butt close to you, passengers giving up seats to the monk, listening to Pali sutta (scripture) chanting in Bollywood Pop arrangement, Mother Mary and Jesus statues on the corner of the roads opening up their arms welcoming you, Buddha in mediation posture sitting in front of huge Bodhi tree and Buddhist iconography displaying on the vehicles, it’s interesting how a 2 hours bus journey slowly reveals what kind of lifestyle and culture the Sri Lankans adopt here.

I made a change from bus to train following up to my destination: Mount Lavinia. The train ride is beautiful; you see ocean views right from the window seat. The winds that caress your face makes you feel like visiting Sri Lanka is a right choice. A kind local prompt me which station to alight, from the station I took a tuk tuk to Mount Lavinia Home Stay. I met Mrs Priya, a friendly house owner, whom is very attentive. I then drop dead on my bed till to the jetlag, overnight travelling and the 180 minutes time lapse.

I woke up around 4pm, exploring the town and the nearby beach. It’s full of locals flying kites, playing cricket & kicking ball on the beach. I’m certain I'm the only Asian; I’m surprised they are not a lot of tourist or backpackers. I sure look like an alien to them, and standing at 1.78m sure doesn’t help. They look at you, in a friendly and awkward sort of manner, some locals even come up and say hello. With my stomach growling, I then check out the eateries, hoping I can get a first taste of Curry and Rice in Sri Lanka. I take away my dinner, knowing it’ll be good to eat in my room, enjoying my me time while watching DVD, a movie I bought in KL, I love Philip Morris before I fall into a very much needed and long sleep…

Transport
Aero Bus from KL Sentral > LCCT: RM8
Bus Ride from Averiwatte bus station > Colombo Fort Railway Station: Rps: 100
Train fare from Colombo Fort Railway > Mount Lavinia: Rps: 50
Tuk tuk from Mount Lavinia Train station > Mount Lavinia Home stay: Rps: 150

Sleep
Mount Lavinia Home Stay
17/7 Off De Saram Road Mount Lavinia
Rps: 1300 for a single person

I love the size of the bedroom. It’s huge with 2 high ceiling fans. Free Wi-Fi is definitely a bonus. The toilet is really clean with Jasmine flower scent, personally not my favourite scent but I can make do with it comparing other unknown unpleasant odour. 2 single beds with colourful, inviting and cheerful bed sheet cover bring a smile to my face. Location is good, walkable distance to the beach, cafés and restaurants.

Eat

Kushmi Foods - 201 Galle Road, Mount Lavinia.

Vegetarian Fried Rice with Soy Curry (Rps: 150) – Simply delectable, the soy curry seems to have squishy mushroom in it, the rice unlike India, is crushed, tiny and broken sort of manner. It’s flavourful; the preserved vegetable is salty yet tasty. Even though the appearance of the curry looks like shit but I still love it! Eating with my hands is authentic and fun!

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 1 – Singapore > KL

I left my house from the lands of wood, early in the morning, catching a bus from Larkin to KL. The bus journey is smooth sailing, even though it rains quite heavily on the road. The trip would not have started without AirAsia, I take the opportunity to grab the lowest airfare. Beside the cheap air fare, the famous Ceylon tea plantations and the Buddhist Ancient Cities in Sri Lanka are hard to resist.

The KL main bus terminal is almost unrecognizable, for good reasons, it used to be temporary located near Bukit Jali, opp the stadium but now, it’s a fully sheltered air condition building, where the nearest train station is Bandar Tasik Selatan. I then take the train from BTS to KL Sentral station, from there I took another train from the Rapid KL line to Pasar Seni where I walk by foot to the Travel hub guest house.

Surprise surprise, the guest house owner whom recently won the most hospitable award told me she is from Sei Lanka and her children are studying in Malaysia. What a coincidental! She even suggest my itinerary, what to eat and where to visit. Thankfully, because of her, I learnt how to pronounce Thank you in Singhalese, Is-too-thee. This is the 23rd Thank you in different languages I’ve been “collecting” since I backpack.

So far, I know how to say Thank you in English, Chinese, Hokkien, Cantonese, Hainanese, Thai, Cambodian, Japanese, Korean, French, Spanish, Italian, Russian, Portuguese, Vietnamese, Malay, Tamil, Hindi, German, Dutch, Burmese and Laos.

I can’t wait to see Sri Lanka and practise Is-too-thee in Sri Lanka soon!

Transport
Bus from Larkin to KL: RM31
Bandar Tasik Selatan > KL Sentral: RM1
KL Sentral > Pasar Seni: RM1
KL > Colombo (Return) by
Air Asia RM283

Sleep
Travel hub guest house
15-17A, Jalan Panggong, Kuala Lumpur
Single room – RM30

Friendly guesthouse owner with good location near the Petaling market.

The day to leave

For the past few days, I’ve been watching dvds non-stop. It’s like one of the things you can do in Brunei till to the ever-growing pirated industry. The brothers plan to have a weekend getaway to Miri, which means facial, massage and shopping in the high Malaysian ringgit conversion rates. In the meantime, they’ll drive me to the airport.

Facial is a stress relief. My skin is very dry till to the air conditioning in the Wong residence. Fully charged! I bought 2 shoes and have a lovely lunch in cook with chilli with Patrick & Gilbert. With quite a bit of Brunei currency in my wallet, I’m all set to return Singapore. Leaving with gratifications and gratitude for the Wong family…

The wedding without the Alcohol

Early in the morning, Philip and his “brothers” went to pick up the bride. All the relatives were there crowding around, anticipating the arrival of the groom and bride, Stanley and his nephew take care of the fire cracker where Patrick born in the dragon year has to hide in the room after the groom and bride step into their bedroom.

Friday, is an off day for the country instead of the weekends Sat and Sun, which is annoying or interesting, because you off on Friday and carry on working on Sat and off again on Sun.

I got to meet one of Philip’s “brothers”, Rick whom is a Bruneian but now works in Australia. He has a wicked sense of humour and what’s more he is a Vegan so Patrick and Stanley label us as same species which I prefer not to associate with alien. Happy to meet like-minded friend and have someone I can talk to in the wedding, to be specific on the same table which serve vegetarian dishes.

As both the Groom and Bride are teachers, so the wedding banquet was held in the school hall, interesting venue. Very Malaysia in a way, as there is a karaoke machine on the stage waiting for people to belt out. I sang The power of love and How do I live as a tribute to the wedding couple.

As the Chinese Emcee, I almost forgot Brunei prohibit public alcohol consumption and I fail to realise the champagne don’t pop because there is no alcohol content. It’s a beautiful night! Everyone is happy; I can see tears from Philip’s eyes at certain moments, when I sang and Gilbert giving the thank you speech...

Hairy preparation and the final touches

Everyone is running around in Seria for errands, Pat, Stan and I went to the local Indian barber for a shave :) As I've very hairy....beard, don't think otherwise. The shave is incredibly good, clean-shaven and with head massage for just $2!  How I wish, Singapore has such barber conveniently located in the land of woods.

I then run through the Emcee script with Stan, catch up with Walter and finishes it off with watching a horribly hairy Jap movie, hair extension.

Borneo here I come!

Travelling to Brunei with less than S$60 from Air Asia, the journey might have a little detour but all in all the money saved for this trip is “priceless”. I started off with exiting the woodlands custom, from bus 950 then continue my journey to the Kota Raya bus terminal, from there, the RM8 coach brings me directly to the Senai airport where I took the flight from Johore Baru to Miri, which is near to the border of Brunei.

A lot of people might not know that the East Malaysia is very close to Brunei, just like JB and Singapore. My friend Patrick and his younger brother, Gilbert then picks me up from Miri airport. Patrick is not a stranger, he has been to Singapore several times and I usually try to catch up with over dinner or coffee but Gilbert is growing bigger and slightly taller, when I was working in Brunei, he is always the most reserved brother among the Wong family. Inquisitive yet as all boys do, infatuated with computer games. We then immediately cross over the border from west Malaysia before it closes by 10pm on our way to Lumut, Brunei, Wong residence.

Everyone is at the residence when I arrive, warmth and lovely welcome, I met Stanley first, which used to be my roommate, colleague and lastly good friend, how time flies, it’s almost 6 years since we last saw each other, his figure is still “swell” and chubby. :) I then saw his mother, the kindness and generous woman whom cook for me when I was working in Brunei every weekend. Nostalgic surely, her husband, Uncle Wong, with Einstein hair-do woke up in the middle of his sleep just to welcome me. We chatted quite a bit mostly about Philip wedding. After discussing further, we then discovered there is a wedding notice that needs to be design and print on this Friday newspaper. Without further delay, I then volunteer and immediately work on the wedding notice. Gilbert helps to “Pin Yin” as we have to type out the Chinese text in the computer. Finally, all work is done and I went to bed soundly...

Working Destination - Brunei

Brunei! Yes, I used to work in that country, at this point, most of my friends raised their eyebrows, up and down, thinking why on earth will I work there. How about first of all, the currency is the same as Singapore which means the value is not deflated. "Troublesome" as it sounds; I really don't have to change my currency even when I'm working abroad. After working a year, I agree with the lacklustre opinions you have for Brunei, quiet, dull and sometimes boring. What's surprising is the genuine friendship I've made with my colleagues and their family. With special invite from my friend, Patrick to attend his brother, Philip's wedding, I'm heading back to the country I once worked in where the quiet, dull and boring country will not seem quiet, dull and boring anymore!