Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 15 – Nurara Eliya > Dalhouise

Ella is not fated to be. As we plan on a day trip to Ella first before Adam’s peak, we realize there is not enough time to visit as the journey from Ella to Hatton takes 5hours, we give up and this is the second time I bought a ticket to Ella and forsaking it. We change our plan and take the train to Hatton instead; the station master is kind enough to let us pay a little amount of money to sit at the observatory deck. The seat is much comfortable but since it’s a short ride, I didn’t manage to see much.

We reached Hatton with tremendous of tuk tuk drivers surrounding us like gold diggers, we then choose to go with a representative from the white house as the transport from Hatton to Dalhouise is cheap. We like the guesthouse and once we unloaded our bags, we left straight to lunch and a little preview on how the road the Adam’s peak will be.

We then took an evening nap before the climb. At 2am we woke up. Seriously, Adam’s peak is not for the faint hearted and don’t get mistaken, I’m not there to look for Adam. Adam peak is said to be where Buddha visited Sri Lanka and left his footprints. The steps are steep and climbing at 2am sure doesn’t help. On our way to Adam’s peak, we realize we are not alone; there are a group of Scottish and Irish volunteering in Sri Lanka we met on our way up the hill. The journey seems to be conversations with every 15 minutes of exchanging partner. I bonded with a girl Prue from Australia, she is fun loving, cheerful and very friendly to talk too. Maybe she is very open, she told me about her Japanese lover and working in Shanghai. Cat has some knee problems so we encourage and waited for her. I’m sure I’ll turn into supermodel figure once I reach the top. Finally, 5 hours of tedious journey, all of us were at the peak on the mountain.

There is a tea house to chill and rest from the long climb, disappointed not to see the footprint, only open in pilgrimage season Nov – Jan, It’s freezing cold. I rang a bell in the temple to signify my achievement and presence. On our way down is faster but harder as well. It’s a tiring hike but it sure is a life mission that I’m proud to accomplish.

Transport

Jeep ride from Single tree hotel to Nandu Oyu Train station: Rps 120
Train from Nandu to Hatton: Rps: 150
White house Van ride from Hatton train station to Dalhouise – Rps: 100

Sleep

White house, triple room - Rps 1000

A nice cozy house at the bottom of the hill. Surrounding is cool and inviting. Room is clean but the hot shower doesn't provide much water for a shower so I splash myself with cold water instead early in the morning.

Eat

Egg noodles with Egg curry in addition a pot of tea - Rps: 560

It takes a while for the food to be ready. Curry is great but not enough of gravy. Fried rice I took from Katy is better than the noodles. Portion is tremondously huge!

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 14 – Arugam Bay > Nuwara Eliya

Till to the exhausting crazy late night, we depart around 12 noon to Nuwara Eliya. After an emotional farewell with Sarah and Paul, we headed our way to Nuraweliya. Since we miss the early bus to Nurwara Eliya this morning, Cat, Kat and I decided to get a tuk tuk from Beach Hut to Monaragala, from there we catch a bus to Badulla, then from Badulla to Wellamada, lastly from Wellamada to Nuwara Eliya. It’s a long tedious journey, so once we reached there, we checked into the hotel that provides tour to Adam’s peak which costs Rps: 7500 for 3 people. Seriously, the owner is untrustworthy; he likes to mark up his price anyhow. Since it’s a late at night, we have no choice but to stay a night. Funny how I come to Nuwara Eliya, it always a sleep over.

Sleep

Single tree hotel – Triple room - Rps: 2200
Terrible boss whom jacks up the price as he like. Room is decent. Can’t believe my guide has such high praises for this hotel. The tour package is overprice and over promise and undelivered. It’s not the the right place to stay, it feels unsafe as Katy puts it.

Transport

Tuk tuk from Beach Hut to Monaragala – Rps: 2100 (shared by 3)

Bus from Monagara to Badulla – Rps: 58

Bus from Badulla to Wellamada – Rps: 52

Bus from Wellamada to Nurwarail ELiya – Rps: 50

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 13 – Another another Day in Arugam Bay

It’s a crazy day back at the long table. Chatting and eating non-stop. I decided to join Cat and Kathy to Adam peak instead of Kandy. We made arrangement in the morning to have dinner in Siam view, seeing how Rob highly recommends it. The Thai food serves to me is not that fantastic in my opinion, it can be more authentic perhaps it’s the lack of Thai ingredients! However, the African Thai mixed chef is indeed interesting, she is so happy to see a “Thai mixed” converse in Thai with her :) she has a son and a beautiful daughter Laila, which is the main attraction in the restaurant as all the customers play with her and vying her attention.

After the dinner, it’s a full on party mode, everyone gather back at the long table, playing sing a song and poker games. I can’t believe even the ones not staying in the Beach hut comes here to have a drink and make it a more interesting party. Cat plays her party songs from her ipod, I even video tape everyone singing a song, I want to fuck you hard :) I can’t believe this kind of song exists. Some people climb up to the long table dancing and other will slightly drunk, tipsy and rowdy. I’ve never been having so much fun so late at night in my entire backpacking trip before! The friends I bonded with will sure last a lifetime. Paul and Sarah already specially invited me to Ireland and insist I stay at their house. We even make plan, in the next 10 years if we have quite a bit of money, we’ll open up a guesthouse in Sri Lanka, but Paul hope to opens an Irish pub while I suggest the pub comes with a guesthouse :)

I left the party around 3am wondering how am I going to wake up at 5am, catching a bus to Nurwara Eliya.

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 12 – Another Day in Arugam Bay

There is a long table in Beach hut, where everyone from all around the world comes to this table in Arugam Bay. They came here to eat; at times you met new unfound friends; most of the times engaging into meaningful and interesting conversation with people you hardly know.

That’s what I do; I sat at the long table from morning till night, chatting non-stop with friends I’ve just met, like an international buffet except you use the mouth to talk not to eat. From the morning conversation, I got to learn 6 more languages, Thank you in (Hebrew) Toda, (Finish) kittos, (Danish, Sweddish) tak, (Swahili, Africa) Asante sana, (Austria) Dangka!

It’s funny how Vicky transforms herself in the morning, yesterday, she was drunk when she came back to our room and this morning, with more than enough sleep, you can see her glowing. That’s the power of beauty sleep my friend!

I then met Cat from Australia, she is hilarious, at first I thought she looks like a witch because of the candle she is lighting (it turns out to be a candle that give off scent to repel mosquitoes) and one minute later we just bonded like best friends. It’s interesting on the level of chemistry you have for someone in less than 5 minutes, I got to know a jewel designer, Joen whom is extremely creative and inspiring, the photo montage by using the rays of lights he has done is incredible. He is interested in my book, scared places, a pilgrimage in Sri Lanka so I lend it to him. Nick whom I’ve met yesterday told me about this Kudimbigala Buddhist cave about 30 km away from Arugam Bay which is also mentioned in my pilgrimage book triggers my interest. I check with the tuk tuk driver and it cost Rps 2500, a little too much for my budget so I decided to give that idea up, knowing someday I’ll be back in this beautiful country.

As the night goes, I get to know more friends, 2 Israeli guys, Danny and one who knows like Satan, an Irish couple, Paul and Sara whom come to Arugam Bay for honeymoon; they just had an adorable baby boy and Katy, friend of Cat. We talk about the past, present and the future then it turns into a poker game, Bullshitting. We have to put down the cards and trying to convince everyone that the card we put on the table is exactly what we shout out. It’s so fun! Seeing how Sophie can’t really lie  and catching people “bullshitting”.

Paul suggests going for a night dip and so I went, a daring move perhaps in my whole backpacking trip. It’s dark at night, barely can see anyone not to mention the strong waves but it’s indeed exhilarating!! Sara and Kathy even go topless! We then went back to the long table to continue our poker game; this time is a game with certain commands when you pull out certain numbers, for example J is a toilet card, 10 is to make a rule and 6 girls drink and the person who pulls out the last King will have to drink the mixture of alcohol we pour into the glass placed into the middle of the cards. Paul got to drink the horrifying blends of alcohol and we have to say ErLu at every end of our sentences. It’s hilarious!

I think I get really high from the night swim and so when Rob ask me when I’m leaving, I tease him by singing And I’m not going, which makes the whole tables clapping! The sweet children from a Holland family even ask for my autograph which makes me embarrass! Oh what a night! But I’m an early sleeper…

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 11 – Haputale > Arugam Bay

Spontaneous is good especially when travelling. If I haven’t stop in Haputale instead of Ella, I wouldn’t have met Rob, Sophie and Vicky and I wouldn’t have joined them to Arugam Bay instead of Kandy. The bus trip is not easy, we have to take a bus from Haputale to Wellawaya bus station but thank goodness, from Wellawaya there is a direct bus to Arugam Bay. The bus ride in total takes about 7 hours; it would have been only 4 hours if not for the long stops in between. Funny how Sophie seems to have a ‘pee’ connection, we can’t seem to hold our pee very long, so whenever there is a stop, we desperately rush to the toilet.

Tourist touts is always around especially in the bus station, an old guy keeps following us, trying to show us the way to wait for our bus. It’s annoying when he keeps pestering us, making small talk, thinking we’ll tip him when we board the bus. My principle is I don’t pay for kindness, kindness should be free, no expecting in return and I don’t encourage anyone paying for kindness in one way you’re encouraging greed.

After the 7 hours long bus trip, we arrived in Arugam Bay, unquestionably, it is one of the best beach ever, we drop our bags in the rooms, get changed and went straight to the beach. The currents are so high & strong and that makes it very exciting to swim in, the saltiness of the sea water didn’t really bother me much except rubbing my eyes all the time. I’m glad I came here and excited Rob is joining us tomorrow.

Lying down on the beach, getting yourself wet and sandy, letting the sea water rinses you, so what if life consists of pain and suffering. What we need is to reflect on our bad experiences, let go and reboot so we can feel brand new again. It’s like dirty laundry! For now all I need is a beach, a cocktail (Preferably non-alcoholic) on hand and let the sea wind and water makings me feel brand new again.

Transport

Bus from Haputale to Wellawaya – Rps: 70
Bus from Wellawaya to Arugam Bay – Rps: 130

Food

Narruki
It’s a weird kind of combination, bread crumbs with carrots, leek and egg. It sounds like food for rabbit but it tastes delicious. Healthy and fulfilling!

Sleep

Beach Hut

Sadly, all the rooms at the front are taken so we took a room less than fabulous, together with Sophie and Vicky in a triple room. The room is basic but thankfully the mosquitoes net help me to survive against some bugs at night. It’s not ideal but hey can’t expect much when 3 of us are sharing. The cost is going to be so cheap.

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 10 – Another day in Haputale

I left my guesthouse together with Rob, Sophie and Vicky to Horton’s plain, maybe I was anxious on the trip or just not wanting to be late as it’s a very early morning call. Surprisingly, we got a minivan for 4 of us travelling about 90mins to Horton’s plain. On our way up, Rob told us a story of a Pussy show performer in Thailand name sticky Vicky and so immediately we look into Vicky and started to laugh. It’s hilarious!

We were freezing cold when we reach the HP and at the entrance we realize we are paying more than what the guide book indicated. What’s with the additional 12% service charge, to mown the forest! It’s ludicrous! It’s really expensive and overprice! The hike up wasn’t that strenuous as I’ve expected. We sat on the Great world’s end to have our breakfast. Everyone is commenting about the authenticity of the cheese in their sandwich they have packed from the guesthouse. The view in my personal opinion is not as breathe-taking as Lipton’s Seat but nonetheless it’s a great view for a Sunday morning! We continue hiking and reach the Barker’s waterfall.

With spontaneous enthusiasm from Rob, he took off his clothes together with Vicky and jump into the waterfall for a swim. It’s freezing cold but I’m sure they enjoy it looking from their faces! We then carry on finishing our hike. It’s a good workout with a hefty price! With an exhausting morning, we head back to our guesthouse to take a nap. Sadly, Rob is leaving to Ella. Initially, I wanted to follow him and take the train ride to Ella and witness the 360 degrees turn highly recommended by the guidebook. However, there is no direct bus from Ella to Haputale so I decided not to join him but sat with him till his train comes. Rob is definitely one of the coolest guys I’ve met during my backpacking trip so far! He is adventurous, thoughtful and seriously fun to chat with! I bet he must be releasing all his good fun for the past 9 years confining from his 9 to 5 bank job.

After I bid farewell, it’s time to have some good dinner. It’s funny how one Holland couple, 2 English girls, 5 Belgium chaps and 1 Singaporean sat down in front of the TV watching Toy Story 3 bonding by the live taking toys!

Transport

Mini Van from Guesthouse to Horton’s plain – Rps: 4000 shared by 4 people: Rps: 1000

Entry Fees

Horton Plains - Rps: 2,350

Sri Lanka Curry and Rice Adventure - Day 9 – Another day in Haputale

I check out the “dirty motel” way early, without brushing my teeth to another guesthouse, basically I can’t wash my mouth since the tap runs dirty water, so I left as fast as possible, checking in to another guesthouse so I can visit the great views in Lipton’s Seat. I take a tuk tuk all the way up making sure I’m not missing the view as by 10pm the view gets misty. It sure worth waking up early, the air is so refreshing and the tea plantation is so well trimmed which you can compare the Excellency of a good Brazilian wax and every air you breathe in is magical. I even saw a rainbow at one time that elevates my mood. As it’s really early, with not a sight of tourists around except the tea house owner and me, I ordered a cup of tea and he even bought some biscuits accompany with my tea, now that’s what life should be. A cup of tea and no worries!

Lipton tea is actually where Sir Thomas Lipton will sit when he want a good view and it sure is!

As reluctant as I’m leaving the seat, I’ve to return to Dambatenne tea factory and join the tea factory tour before the workers stop work for lunch at 12 noon. The hike down is beautiful, blue sky, friendly locals that say hello every time you pass them by and the air just make it a top 10 hike I’ve done in my travels. It’s definitely a walk to remember! The tea factory tour was alright, Ramesh my guide seems to mumbling rather than actual talking about the process. I get to know the Tamil workers earn Rps: 480 and plucks 16kg of tea leaves a day. In the end it’s nice to see how the machinery work but sadly you don’t get to taste or purchase the finest tea in Ceylon. I then took a bus back to the town of Heputale, on the bus I saw a lot of Tamils girl wearing saris, funny how the bus conductor ask a child to give up his seat for me. It’s really sweet and thoughtful but unfair for the poor kid!

I then get to know a group of Belgium guys travelling together, playing a kind of poker games wizar to waste their time. It’s funny how the some poker cards can have different variations of playing it. Then I got to meet Rob from England, we get along really well, with a wicked sense of humor, chatting non-stop, maybe both of us are born in 1980. He told me he is arranging a car to Horton’s plain together with 2 English girls, Sophie and Vicky, Rps: 4000 for 4 people including me and ask if I want to join them. That’s half of what the guide book suggested. I then show him around the town which get him by surprise, cause the town is really not a town in terms of the size.

On our way back to the guesthouse, I met Ali, the guy whom recommends me to sleep in the “dirty motel”, he is so apologetic and he told me there is a full moon Buddhist festival happening tonight. Since the festival is starting soon, we then chill in a local bakery which serves delectable “samosa” together with a sweet milk tea. I better stop doing the zodiac things as Rob calls it ballock! After waiting for a while, Ali then told me it’s going to be delayed, so we went back for dinner and told the rest of the backpackers that there is a festival going on in town. With my stomach bloated, Rob and me, the Belgium lads and a Holland couple join us to the festival.

It’s really cool! In between the parade, you see elephant dressing up in red elaborated costume, with children performing with fire, children whipping the floor which looks dangerously, I would have say Kids, don try it at home but it’ll sound contradicting. The festival is a great eye-opener! With an early Horton’s Plain hike we have to do in 5am, I better get to the bed soon!

Sleep
Amarasinghe guesthouse – Rps 1500 (Peak/Holiday season)
It’s an amazing guesthouse with Dutch inspire architecture. The room comes with a balcony. It’s spacious and without stale air in the room. Beds are comfortable to toss and turn. Amarasinghe’s wife is a fantastic cook! One bad merit is that the room are overprice in holiday season.

Transport

Tuk tuk from my Amarasinghe guesthouse to Lipton Seat – Rps: 1000
Bus from Dambatenne tea factory > Haputale town – Rps: 22

Entry Fees

Lipton’s seat – Rps: 50

Food

3 Vegetables Curry Rice - Rps: 280

Absolutely delicious that I almost forgot to take the pictures of my food. The curry with the different vegetables is very appetizing! It's tasty and flavourful!